Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Bon Appétit Guam

French cooking is arguably the best food on the planet (I like Italian). Guam is a long way away from France, geographically and gastronomically. A lot of Guam's culture is an aggregate of different flavors from all over the world brought here by their occupying people and added to the local fare. It is safe to say a Frenchman has never set foot on Guam.Or if he has, he bid a hasty retreat in defense of his alimentary canal.
All Chamorro food has the commonality somewhere in the preparation where the words "pound it on a rock" are found. Don't get me wrong. The food tastes good and there is always plenty, but it is best described as rudimentary in preparation and presentation. As a matter of fact some of my favorite Chamorro eateries are found in various public parking lots. Some of these nomadic concessions of gastric compunction are found outside places like the DMV where long lines are the norm and your presence on the premises is a long term commitment. A captive audience, as it were.
Again, let me stress. I am not complaining. It's just difficult to objectively evaluate a meal when you always have to eat it standing up balancing your soda in the crook of your arm.
One of the best examples we experienced recently was BBQ at the beach catered by one of the best local eateries. BBQ is always very well-done heavily marinated pork, chicken, and beef served frequently on a kabob.
Keleguen is a tasty staple at any affair on the island. Consisting of a meat like fish, shrimp or chicken combined with green onions, lemon juice, peppers, coconut and salt. All finely chopped and served as a salad, it has a fantastic flavor with a punch at the end. I have never seen it presented in anything except a large Tupperware bowl...I'm not sure what that means. Be careful not to take too much the first time. You can always go back for more. 
A truly authentic meal must include fish often prepared in coconut milk or vinegar. Very tasty if you can get past the fact that it still has the head and tail on it. 
SPAM, truly enjoyed at breakfast but never really frowned upon if included in other meals. I guess that is the American contribution to Chamorro cuisine. Brought here in mass by the military during WWII when fresh meat was absent. It represents a symbol of hard times on the mainland but on Guam it is celebrated with proudly displayed T-shirts and bumper stickers and is commonly served even at Burger King and McDonald's.
But alas, if you fear that is all there is to eat here, don't despair. Considering the Filipino, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, and Spanish influence on the island, the choices of food here are as vast as the planet itself, save for the escargot, mon amis.